Don't Be Square!

We here at Meat VS Veg are always looking to try new places, and one of the newest on the local food scene is Square One in Sherwood Park. Following the trend of locally-sourced food, they call themselves "meticulously casual", although we agreed that term is rather vague and perhaps slightly pretentious! They offer a varied food menu, a large selection of unique drinks, and even a brunch where each dish is named after the country that inspired it. Keep reading to find out how our first experience was at Square One!

Ambiance and Service

Steph: A single large, open concept room is the setting for Square One, with a square bar taking center stage. Curved leather booths and high tables surround the bar and the dark wood and metal accents make for an upscale vibe. A few whimsical touches, like an oil painting of Darth Vader's stoic portrait, reveal a cheekier side to the restaurant. We went at a pretty quiet time, but the young staff was certainly attentive, friendly, and quick.
Rating 4/5

Jackie: Square One is exactly that, square. I enjoyed the open concept of the restaurant and their booths were quite comfortable. Also, the portrait of Darth Vader got a good chuckle out of me. What I don’t understand is why they would refer to themselves as a modern speakeasy. It really does have the ambience of your typical chain restaurant. It is basically like sitting down in a really expensive version of Joey’s. Our server was great she was pleasant and attentive. It was clear that she knew the menu as she offered an additional Arrancini, which is typically plated with 3 portions, as it would be easier to share. I would say that she should have warned us that it was going to be an additional $4. Our water was never empty and she promptly brought anything that we requested.
Rating 3/5

Taste and Presentation

Jackie: This place has the makings of greatness, but it just fell short in terms of food quality. Our Arrancini ($11.00 + $4.00 for one extra), was cooked well. It was crispy on the outside, and had a generous portion of, rice, gooey Canadian cheese, and portabella mushrooms on the inside. The problem was the lack of flavour. This dish needs something to spice it up, as the absinthe arrabiata sauce really did nothing to enhance the dishes otherwise bland flavour. While it wasn’t terrible, it was forgettable at best. 

As for the main course, I should’ve jumped at my first instinct, which was Johns Clubhouse with turkey, Irving’s bacon, Sylvan Star grizzly cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and basil mayo. Instead I sought advice from the server and she told me that of the two, the Pork Chop Sandwich ($16) was her favorite. Served on a delicious potato bun, this sandwich had me salivating just reading about it. Sadly, though the pork was beautifully cooked, there was very little to sink my teeth into. Despite the nice cook on the pork gammon steak, I found there were parts of it that had far too much gristle and it was difficult to eat. The slaw was decent, it tasted like good coleslaw, and was evidently house made. I appreciated that it wasn’t swimming in dressing, which helped to reduce the soggy bun problem that goes hand in hand with having slaw as a topping. The problem is that I was left trying to figure out what would have made this sandwich worth the amount I was paying for it. I came to the determination that it needed something sweet and perhaps some cheese. I think apples and brie cheese would’ve been a nice touch. I mean pork and apples are a classic pairing that would have added crunch and sweetness. As for the cheese, in my world, a good sandwich isn’t complete without a nice hunk of cheddar or in this case Brie. Ultimately the fries were the stars of this dish, beautifully crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with just the right amount of salt. 

On the bright side, we saved the best for last and shared Saskatoon Berry Crème Brulee ($9). The sugar was beautifully caramelized, and not at all burnt. The custard was thick and smooth and the addition of fresh Saskatoon berries make it the perfect balance of sweet and savory. 
Rating 2.5/5

Steph: Our shared order of Arrancini had great potential, and the gooeyness when we cut into them was mouthwatering, but the flavors disappointed. The sauce had very little spice or flavor, and the arrancini themselves tasted mostly of mushroom. They were cooked perfectly, and the crunchy outside contrasted beautifully with the gooey insides, but there really was little flavor to be had.

For my entree I had trouble deciding between the Prima Donna salad or the Cacio e Pepe pasta. I ultimately went with the pasta ($21), thinking that comfort food sounded good, and I could eat any leftovers for supper at work later that day. Described as "cheese and pepper pasta, basil, and cherry tomatoes", this dish sounded simple and lovely. However the trend of dishes that sounded great but were lacking in flavor continued with this one. The pasta, while a good portion, was slightly overcooked, and by the end of my meal had stuck together in a clump never to be torn asunder. The cheese was too mild to pack any sort of punch, and the tomatoes the menu promised turned out to be two cherry tomatoes sliced in half. All around an unimpressive dish.

The highlight of our meal was definitely dessert. The Saskatoon Berry Crème Brulee was light and tasty and a wonderful way to end our time at Square One. The creamy texture, interspersed with ripe Saskatoon berries and topped with crunchy caramelized sugar was perfect, and I would happily go back to have it again!

Rating 3/5


Overall Value

Jackie: The fact that Square One doesn’t list prices on their menu should’ve been a red flag for us. While I understand that using local ingredients, something that Square One prides itself on, does increase the overall cost to the consumer, the food just simply wasn’t good enough to justify the cost of the meal. $43.00 (including tip) for a bottle of Root Beer ($4.50), half of an appetizer, a sandwich with fries, and half a dessert is ridiculous. I really wanted to try their homemade ice cream, but I took a pass, as I would never pay $9.00 for it. This place is more expensive than your average upscale chain restaurant, and not quite as good. In order to justify the prices on the menu, they need elevate their dishes so that the customer feels as if they are getting good bang for their buck! My hope is that they make some changes, as they are relatively new. Otherwise, I don’t see myself heading back for a meal any time soon.
Rating 1/5

Steph: Being located in the mostly affluent Sherwood Park, Square One is not appealing to the budget conscious, and that's perfectly okay. However, no matter where you are, the dishes you serve need to live up to the hype and the prices need to reflect the quality of the food. It was this fact that most disappointed me, as the service and decor were great, but the flavors did not justify the prices. I'm happy to pay top dollar for an amazing meal, but this meal was lackluster.
Rating 2/5

The Verdict We always want to give new restaurants the benefit of the doubt. Square One has great potential and is in the right location for their clientele, but it really is all about the food. Our visit was disappointing to say the least, and we left agreeing not to return for quite a while. Let's hope they work out the kinks and Square One lives up to it's potential!

Final Rating 15.5/30

And the winner is... Veg! This was a tough call, as neither main meal was great, but since our appetizer and delicious dessert both count as Veg we're declaring it the winner!

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